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Showing posts with label resources. Show all posts
Showing posts with label resources. Show all posts

Lens Review: Canon EF 70-200mm f/4 L USM IS

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Quick Specs:
Focal Range: 70-200mm; 35mm equivalent for 1.6x crop sensors: 112-320mm
Maximum Aperture: f/4  •  Minimum Aperture: f/32  •  Diaphragm: 8 blades
Minimum Focusing Distance: 4 feet  •  Magnification: .21x
Weight: 1.7 pounds  •  Filter Size: 67mm  •  ✔FTM, ✔USM, ✔IS (+4 stops)

First Impressions

This lens is simply beautiful. From the light cream color on the exterior, to the feel of the rubber rings and the motion of focusing and zooming, you know this lens is built to last and scream “look at me!” – the latter part could be a bad thing or a good thing, depending on how you look at it!

This lens is not as heavy as its bigger brother – the EF 70-200 f/2.8 L USM IS lens, but if f/2.8 is important to you, the non-IS EF version is roughly the same size and weight. If you have a Rebel body, the EF 70-200 f/2.8 L USM IS lens quickly makes the camera look absolutely tiny. (Get a battery grip and that impression goes away.)

Usage

Focusing and zooming are as smooth as butter with enough internal resistance so that zoom creep isn’t an issue. All focusing is internal – as such the front element neither rotates nor moves. Zooming is also internal; this helps protect against sucking in dust.

Autofocus is generally reliable, though not as precise as the f/2.8 variety. But if focus is missed, the full-time-manual focus makes it a breeze to refocus on your subject. Anymore, this is very near to the top of my list of important items for a lens to have; switching to a lens without FTM is difficult for the first few moments as I realize I can’t just focus whenever I want.

One thing that initially surprised me about the lens was the sound it made when it was stabilizing the image. You get used to it pretty quickly, and it isn’t loud, by any means, but the first time you engage the IS, you wonder what’s going on in there to cause that noise. After using it for awhile, I barely notice it anymore.

Image Stabilization is also very effective. Canon claims 4 stops – in reality this will vary between 2 and 3 stops depending on how steady you are to begin with. I’ve had rare success at around 4 stops, and usually can’t count on more than 2.5. Even so, for still objects, this effectively makes the lens an f/1.8 or f/2 lens; but when you introduce a moving subject, all that goes out the window. If you’re going to be shooting moving subjects handheld and in low light, you’ll want to consider the pricier and heavier f/2.8 IS version (if IS is still important to you), or the roughly equivalent (in terms of weight and price) non-IS f/2.8 version.

It is important to note that using this lens will get you noticed. Photographers who don’t have a lens like this will whisper behind your back, wishing they had this lens, and most people immediately have “respect” for you as the photographer. Whereas when shooting with a point-and-shoot, most people don’t watch if they are getting in your way, they definitely take care when they see this long lens. Add the lens hood, and people really take notice; with the lens hood attached, you’re looking at one foot of extension from the mount.

Getting noticed can be a good thing (it actually got me a shoot!), but it can also be a bad thing. Security personnel are far more likely to keep a close eye on you, and some people who wouldn’t otherwise have minded being photographed will balk when faced with this monster pointing at them. One thing is for sure: this lens immediately brands you as a “pro”, and not a “tourist” – so if you want to do the tourist thing, take your P&S, or a much smaller walk-around lens.

Image Quality

Image quality is exceptional, as it should be with any L series lens. Contrast and colors are captured very nicely, and light flare is well controlled. It isn’t as fast as its siblings, meaning that I have to increase my ISO more than I would like, but on a modern body, that doesn’t usually present a problem.

Bokeh is gorgeous, resulting in a very creamy out-of-focus background at large apertures. Even stopped down, the bokeh is quite good. The effect is more obvious at 200mm than at 70mm due to the smaller depth-of-field, but at either end things look wonderful.

Color Fringing is virtually invisible on this lens. I’ve seen a few traces here and there, but of all the lenses in my kit, this one takes the cake in terms of controlling fringing. Flare is also exceptionally controlled; short of pointing this thing into the sun, you’ll hardly ever see any flare.

There is a little lens distortion at either end of the focal range, as is typical with any zoom lens. There are simply too many compromises that have to be made with a zoom lens versus a prime lens. While the distortion is evident in lab tests, I’ve yet to have the distortion be truly visible or worrisome in real life. For a zoom, this is fantastic, and while it isn’t quite as good as a prime lens, the ability to reframe without having to change lenses is a huge benefit.

This lens is, quite simply, tack sharp, even at the maximum aperture of f/4. This is really impressive for a telephoto zoom lens, and rivals (if not exceeds in some areas) the performance of the various primes that fall within the focal length of this lens. However, this only applies to this lens – the other lenses in the family do not have the same optics, and though they are also exceptionally sharp, they are just a little less so.

Macro:

This lens isn’t going to win any awards in the macro lens world. Even so, under the right conditions, you can get some decent closeups, but don’t expect anything like a 1:1 ratio. This lens is closer to 1:5, but if you need better, you can always add extension tubes. Even so, it makes for fantastic flower shots or portraits, so unless you need to get really close, this shouldn’t be too terrible a concern.

Pros:

  • Nice, constant maximum aperture of f/4
  • Good range of 70-200mm
  • Excellent image quality with minimal flare and negligible fringing in very high contrast areas
  • Full-time Manual Focus
  • Beautiful bokeh
  • Very well built
  • Tack sharp at all apertures; rivals primes in the same focal range.
  • Image Stabilizer can live up to the claimed 4 stop improvement if you’re very steady to begin with.

Cons:

  • 67mm filter ring; most lenses in this range take 77mm, and so you’ll be buying more filters rather than re-using your existing filters.
  • Image Stabilization can’t stop a moving subject, so if f/4 isn’t fast enough, consider either of the f/2.8 variants. If you need faster yet, you’ll want to consider a prime lens.
  • 70mm on the low end can be limiting at times; you’ll need to switch to another lens if you’re in even relatively cramped quarters. 200m is good reach, but if you want to bird, you’ll need a longer lens yet.
  • Price – Amazon has this lens for just over $1,300

Conclusion

If you want great image quality, good zoom range, with fantastic image stabilization, grab this lens. Your pocket-book will scream when it sees the bill, but once you start taking pictures, you’ll quickly forget about the price.

Lens Review: Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8 L USM Review

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Quick Specs:
Focal Range: 24-70mm; 35mm equivalent for 1.6x crop sensors: 38-112mm
Maximum Aperture: f/2.8  •  Minimum Aperture: f/22  •  Diaphragm: 8 blades
Minimum Focusing Distance: 1 1/4 feet  •  Magnification: .29x (@70mm)
Weight: 2.1 pounds  •  Filter Size: 77mm  •  ✔FTM, ✔USM, ✘IS

First Impressions

This lens is simply gorgeous. It feels very well constructed and the focus and zoom rings turn smoothly. It presents a nice bright image in the viewfinder, being an f/2.8 lens, and is easy to get very attached to. It is a tad heavy (2.1 pounds), but when you see the results you forget about the weight. (Besides, after awhile, you’ll build up your muscles and won’t notice it anymore!)

Usage

This lens is an absolute joy to use. Focusing is internal, so the front element never rotates – important for filters. What isn’t internal is the zoom – at 70mm, the lens is at its most compact, but extends an additional 2-3 inches when zooming out to 24mm. A little odd, but it doesn’t affect me in practice. When the lens hood is attached, the reason for this becomes obvious – the hood is always the correct distance from the front elements, whereas on cheaper (or other) lenses, the hood is really just made for one focal length, and out-of-place (or in the way) for all other lengths.

Autofocus is generally accurate on a Rebel body, and if the camera misses, the full-time manual focus comes in very handy. Honestly, this is very nearly the most important feature of a lens to me anymore – whenever I switch to a lens that doesn’t support this, it always takes me a moment to realize that I can’t manually focus after the camera has attained what it thinks is a focused image. (And on some lenses, doing so could screw up the focusing motors…, not good!)

It is important to realize that this lens does not have image stabilization. At wide angles this is not as important, but when you get out to 70mm, it quickly becomes an issue if you are shooting handheld and in low light. And, to be honest, even though this lens is a fast f/2.8, it would be a nice addition to have IS at the wide angles as well. Of course, that would add to the price and weight. (If, however, you do want IS, you could consider the 24-105 f/4 L IS USM lens, but you will lose one stop of light.)

Image Quality

Image quality is exceptional, as it should be with any L series lens. Contrast and colors are captured very nicely, and light flare is well controlled. That this is also a fast lens means I can shoot at a lower ISO setting – reducing the noise in the image.

Bokeh is very nice, even when stopped down a bit, resulting in nice, creamy backgrounds. You’ll notice this the most when at the far end of the focal range, as telephoto focal ranges result in a shallower depth of field.

Color Fringing isn’t bad, but not totally absent, either. Here the 70-200mm L telephoto lens seems to outshine this lens, as it is next to impossible to cause very obvious fringing. Even so, the fringing that is present in this lens is manageable, and is no where near what the cheaper wide-angle lenses generate. (I’m talking to you, 18-55mm kit lens!)

There is a little vignetting evident on some images on a 1.6x crop sensor; light fall-off will be more evident on a full-frame sensor, but not at all bad. Stopping down helps alleviate this.

There is a little lens distortion at either end of the focal range, as is typical with any zoom lens. There are simply too many compromises that have to be made with a zoom lens versus a prime lens. While the distortion is evident in lab tests, I’ve yet to have the distortion be truly visible or worrisome in real life. For a zoom, this is fantastic, and while it isn’t quite as good as a prime lens, the ability to reframe without having to change lenses is a huge benefit.

Macro:

This lens isn’t going to win any awards in the macro lens world. Even so, under the right conditions, you can get some decent closeups, but don’t expect anything like a 1:1 ratio. This lens is closer to 1:3.5, but if you need better, you can always add extension tubes. Even so, it makes for fantastic flower shots, so unless you need to get really close, this shouldn’t be too terrible a concern.

Pros:

  • Nice maximum aperture of f/2.8
  • Good range of 24-70mm
  • Excellent image quality with minimal flare and only a little bit of fringing in very high contrast areas
  • Full-time Manual Focus
  • Good bokeh
  • Very well built

Cons:

  • A tad on the heavy side (2.1 pounds)
  • No image stabilization (though this isn’t a deal-breaker at wider angles)
  • 70mm can be limiting at times – if you need more range in a single lens, try the 24-105mm f/4 L IS USM
  • Price – Amazon has this lens for just over $1,300

Conclusion

If you want great image quality, good zoom range, with excellent low-light capabilities, grab this lens. Yes, the credit card will wince a little when it sees $1,300 come across, but it is SO worth it. My only wish would be to have image stabilization on the lens, but that would add to both the price and the weight.

Side Note: On a 1.6x crop sensor this doesn’t give a tremendously wide angle of view – only equivalent to 38mm. If you need wider on the smaller sensor, you could consider the 17-40mm or the 16-35mm. You could also go after the EF-S 10-22mm, but this lens would not be usable on any non-1.6x crop camera.

Music to Work & Relax By

This technically has nothing to with photography. I just wanted to point you to some musical artists whose music I find inspiring and/or relaxing and/or easy to work or relax with:

I can’t imagine you’ve not heard of many of these before, but if you’ve not had the opportunity to hear their music, or just haven’t listened to them in a while, you may want to try them again (or for the first time).

The Golden Hour + Lightroom Presets = Really Cool

The Golden Hour is a fantastic time to take pictures – the light is amazing, and you get all these wonderful colors that just don’t happen when the sun is directly above you. But say you took those fantastic pictures and did a bit more with them after the fact?

First off, I love, love, love the Hodda Blue/Yellow split tone (available for free for LightRoom here). The first six in this post all use the preset at some point in their processing (along with the usual adjustment of levels, crops, and any spot removal needed…)

These first three are insect photos that I happen to like a lot. They were taken just before the golden hour really set in, so in reality everything was nice and green --- using the preset here happened to isolate the subject better by turning the green into a more “purple” background. It also gave the images a look not typically seen in nature photography – wherein the colors here aren’t really representative of the real thing.

The images above were taken just prior to the golden hour; the ones that follow were taken right in the midst. Here the split toning makes for some striking images:

The image below didn’t use the blue/yellow preset. Instead it used a lot of presets (including: WOW Gradient P09, Focus > Snow Detail, and Blue/Red Cross), but I like the effect:

And for the final image – sunset with silhouette trees, the image was spectacular without any processing. In fact, I almost let it go online without any processing. And then I got to playing, and when I used the ADB AGFA Cross Process preset, along with some vignettes, and some additional saturation / vibrance adjustments, this came out. I’m in love:

My last post on this blog was about the golden hour, so this makes two in a row about that subject. But it is an important time of day – the colors are just so gorgeous. But even though the image might be perfect before you do any real work on it, don’t let it stop you from trying things out. You might just find an effect you really, really like (like I did).

So, if you have Lightroom, and like to play with presets, here are some great sites to get you going:

Technical Note: all the above except the last image were taken with the Canon EF 24-70mm L USM lens + UV Filter + Circular Polarizer. The final image was taken using the Canon EF 70-200mm L USM IS lens + UV Filter. Neither lens is cheap, but if you shoot Canon and can get either one of these lenses, you won’t regret it. Aside from being great to build arm strength, they deliver fantastic image quality and ease of use. That said, you can get great image quality with less expensive lenses – so don’t let lens-lust stop you.

Oh, and one more final note – if you don’t have a polarizing filter yet, get one. UV filters can be of questionable value, but a polarizer can do things to colors and reflections that would be hard (if not impossible) to duplicate in Photoshop. You can lose 1 – 2 stops of light when using them, but the results are well worth it. (Just don’t get the cheapie $15 ones. Get something that’s in the $50+ range.)

So – until next time, keep writing with light… (especially the golden kind!)

My Almost Perfect Point-and-Shoot

Canon Powershot SX110IS In a previous post I outlined my requirements for a perfect point-and-shoot while simultaneously lamenting the fact that the Olympus E-P1 didn’t fulfill my wishes. I seriously considered several cameras – from the Sigma DP1 and DP2 to the Canon G9/G10. What I didn’t count on was falling in love with a littler camera at half the price (roughly $230). I ended up purchasing a Canon Powershot SX110IS – the link for all the tech specs and more from Amazon is here.

Granted, this little camera has very few of my absolute requirements for the perfect point-and-shoot. But that’s okay – I went in to the purchase knowing that no perfect point-and-shoot existed. The Sigmas, while their image quality is excellent, are slow as molasses. The Olympus was just too expensive (fix the LCD screen and focusing speed, and I might reconsider), and the Canon G9 and G10 looked promising, but were ultimately overpriced when considering only image quality. (If I’m going to spend $500+ on a point-and-shoot, it had best have fantastic image quality. While good, the G10 is not excellent in this regard.)

And so I found myself playing with this little guy in the store, and very quickly fell in love with it. The controls are fantastic – it has the rotating dial in the back, which I adore, and it has a very nice 10x optical zoom (36-360mm equivalent). It only has 9 megapixels, which considering the 1/2.3” sized sensor is a good thing – this sensor is way too small for anything more (and really, it should only have 6 or 7MP). It also has a full range of advanced modes, including Av, Tv, and M. While one can argue about the benefits of these modes on such a small camera, I still find that I live in Av, even though the camera doesn’t have nearly the ranges my dSLR has. (It can go from f/2.8 to f/8.0 at 6mm, and f/4.3 to f/8 at 60mm.)

The camera also provides manual focusing controls, which are the best I’ve used on any point-and-shoot camera to date, and I can’t imagine any better, short of being able to have a focus ring on the lens. The camera can be set up to automatically enlarge a portion of the scene in order to help you achieve focus.

One unexpected bonus is the camera’s macro abilities. It can focus at 1cm (!!) at 6mm, which makes this thing literally able to focus on anything. It does have to be turned on – otherwise the camera limits the focus to about 12 – 18 inches. And, once you move out of 6mm, the 1cm macro focus is no longer an option. Even so, when most other point-and-shoots can go no closer than 5cm (if that), 1cm is fantastic!

It does lack a viewfinder of any kind, but at $230, I don’t expect one. The screen isn’t 930k pixels, either, but again, $230 doesn’t buy a screen that nice. That said, the SZ110is’s screen is a nice screen, even if it is only 230k pixels. And while the 10x zoom is very appreciated (and the included image stabilization helps quite a bit), there is a fair amount of barrel distortion at the wide end, and pincushion at the telephoto end. It’s nothing that can’t be fixed in Photoshop, but it’d be nice not to have to worry about it all.

It does support video recording, but unfortunately it maxes out at 640x480. Quality is good, but HD would’ve been even nicer. I don’t do a lot of video, so this isn’t something I worry about much.

It also natively lacked the ability to record in RAW. While it does a very nice job with JPGs, I’ve come to enjoy the versatility of RAW images – something the Canon G9/G10, and the other contenders, supported out of the box. But the individuals over at CHDK remedied that problem by having a beta version of their enhancements for the camera available for download. It’s really more of an “add-on” than a firmware update, because it never modifies the original firmware. It lives on the SD card and can be turned on and off at will.

CHDK does a great many things – far too many to elaborate on. It can be used to override various settings in the camera – even if the camera itself doesn’t support it (like bracketing or Av/Tv modes on lesser models), but what most attracted me was the ability to shoot in RAW, which means that I now have 10-bit per channel RAW images that I can edit in Lightroom or Photoshop, rather than 8-bit JPGs. Those extra two bits help a lot – going from 256 values to 1024 values per channel. The downside is that these files are larger, and require more time to process in camera (especially if using DNG auto-convert). (One slight problem with the DNGs out of camera: Lightroom and other RAW processors do NOT handle the color correctly – CHDK is beta, after all – but it was a problem easily fixed by applying a DNG profile to fix the problem; links at end of post).

CHDK is not for the faint of heart – it takes a bit of knowledge to get the files onto the SD card (and don’t use anything >4gb), and once you’ve got it properly installed, you’ll run your camera flat trying to figure out the best settings for you. But once you figure all that out, you’ll have an insanely powerful little camera in your hands! And even if you decide not to apply CHDK, the SX110 IS is a fantastic camera that still offers a good bit of manual control for those of us who are control freaks like that!

Overall, the SX110is is a point-and-shoot I’m happy with, especially with the addition of CHDK to the feature list. Image quality is good (although I’ll go no higher than ISO 200 except in dire circumstances – and don’t even bother at ISO 1600+), the zoom range is very useful, the macro ability is amazing, and the manual modes are very nice to have – especially manual focusing. And for $230, it is half the price of a G10, which ultimately made the decision to get this little guy instead a very easy one indeed.

CHDK:

SX110 IS DNG Profile Links:

SX110IS at Amazon:

Resources: Software Tools and Utilities

As I find new software that I find useful, I’ll add it to this post along with a short description and the price (if it costs anything) as well as a link to the company.

Adobe Photoshop Lightroom 2.3

imageI use, love, adore Lightroom. It is just flat-out the best workflow and RAW/Image manipulation software for me. (That’s not to say it fits everyone – just that it works for me.) It’s a bit pricey at $299, but if you are serious about managing and processing your photographs, then it is money well spent. 

It has a fantastic library module where you can import, manage, categorize, label, and essentially keep track of all your photos. Once categorized, you can take a picture into the develop module to apply any number of various effects to the image – control the white balance, the saturation, the sharpening, vignetting, etc. While these effects aren’t something you couldn’t achieve in any other photo-editing program, the ease with which Lightroom allows you to make the changes is, in my opinion, what sets it apart from everything else – especially if you are working with RAW images – there’s just so much you can do creatively. Beyond the Develop module, you have web, print, and slideshow modules to play with as well.

As far as the images on my own site, nearly all of them will have been processed via Lightroom. Occasionally something will need to be pushed into Photoshop, but believe me – it’s rare that I need to go that far.

Adobe Photoshop Lightroom is available for a free 30 day trial, after which you can purchase it for $299 from Adobe directly. View more info…

Adobe Photoshop CS4

image Adobe Photoshop CS4 pretty much goes hand-in-hand with Adobe Photoshop Lightroom. They integrate very tightly, and LR has support for PS’s smart object feature. If you can’t do something in Lightroom – you can do it in Photoshop. It supports everything you’d ever need in a photo editor, and includes something of large import for those who wish to print their creations – soft proofing. This enables you to get a “preview” of the photo as it might look on paper. It also lets you know if there are any colors that may not be printable (called “out-of-gamut”).

It’s a tad bit expensive at $699, however – though well worth it. However, if you can’t quite spring for that, you should look at several other tools, including Corel’s Paint Shop Pro, Photoline, Paint.NET, and more.

Adobe Photoshop CS4 is available for a free 30 day trial, after which you can purchase it for $699 from Adobe directly. View more info…

Microsoft Web Expression 2

image This is a fantastic tool for publishing websites. While it does support a WYSIWYG method of creating pages, I prefer to work solely in the source view.

While the tool has its quirks, it also makes editing and maintaining my sites very efficient. The full version is $299, but if you’ve ever owned Frontpage, Office, or several other programs, you can get it for as low as $99 as an upgrade. You can try it for free, as well, for 30 days. View more info…

 

Note: all trademarks are owned by the respective companies. The product images are © their respective owners. My evaluations of the software are my own and based solely upon my own experience. There is no connection between the companies making this software and me promoting the software – just my genuine appreciation for a well-made product I happen to enjoy using.